I would do the initial transfer as "flat" as possible; that way you
will have a preservation copy.
You can always subsequently send the audio out of the computer to any
outboard gear you want to try, if you so choose. Besides, you can make
as many attempts at *tweaking* that way as you want, without playing
the original more than once.
On Sunday, October 12, 2003, at 10:07 AM, Art Shifrin wrote:
> In this case "cleaning up sound" is not the goal. It's making it as
> undeststandible as possible. As such, my adivce is not to be
> with whatever noise or listening fatigue are brought out in whatever
> proccesses are applied. I've found that compression and very narrow
> peaking enable such decipherings. The band peaking's in the 3 - 5K
> range in
> which it's the overtones, rather than fundamentals that come through
> When digitizing the originals, if at all possible do the compression
> the A/D. Otherwise the very low level voices, when brought up will
> from very low bit resolution that'll cause unnecessary noise.
> If you have access to any good old analog outboard noise reduction gear
> (i.e. Dolby or dbx), then their recording outputs will be compressed
> pre-emphasized highs.
> That's a good way to pretreat the signal BEFORE digitizing it. An
> adjustable compressor (UREI, Orban, Manley would be better suited, but
> can work wonders with the noise reduction encoders.