Yes you are correct I did use the wrong terminology. I actually like to use the
term Transcription disc (even though in all cases that term isn't entirely
accutrate however in this case it is) in most cases for that very reason. Some
people know and refer to them as acetates so in order to not seem contrary I
usually succumb to the status quo haha. Thanks for the reply. By the time I had
recieved your reply I had actually used another suggestion by Susan Stinson which
worked quite well. I used a tiny bit of lotion and believe it or not it held up
very well yet was still able to move the piece under the microsope into position.
After the initial transfer I got a little adventurous and started trying to get a
better play and even under conditions of using distillied water to try and clean
out the grooves the peices stayed and only had to be slightly repositioned under
the microscope ( one of them not at all). All of this seemed to be for not as
their were still really bad cracks in the laquer that weren't chipped off (and
were amazingly resiliant) so their grooves weren't able to be matched up. The
places I used the lotion worked it's been a few day and they are still on the
disc, however if I wanted they could be removed. Thanks for your time and thanks
to Susan for the great tip!
Graham Newton wrote:
> john loy wrote:
> > I have a Acetate disc from 1950.
> No... you have a lacquer disc... there's not a spec of acetate in it. The
> composition is cellulose nitrate.
> > The last 3/4 of the program are in pretty good shape. However the edge is
> > flaking off pretty bad in spots to the point I'm probably only going to
> > get 1 play in this particular area so I want to make the most of it.
> > There are also some chips that are completly flaked off. Does anyone have
> > any suggestions on how I can temporarily adhere these chips and play what
> > I can from this section of the disc.
> Use paraffin wax to lightly coat the base material of the disc, put the chips
> in place, aligning the grooves at either edge. The wax is easily meltable,
> flows well, and can be made into a very thin layer which is necessary to
> avoid making bumps in the surface. They can easily be lifted and
> repositioned as many times as is necessary to get it right. A low power
> stereoscopic microscope is a BIG help in doing this, as are used dental tools
> that you can scavange from your dentist after he is finished terrorizing his
> patients with them! A hair dryer can warm the disc sufficiently to easily
> work the wax.
> Dave Radlauer <[log in to unmask]> suggested...
> > Some people use clear fingernail polish to seal up cracks or to stabilize
> > chips.
> This is not a good idea on a lacquer, or on anything that you DON'T want to
> dissolve part of the surface! Nail polish contains some serious solvents
> like acetone and toluene and these will damage a phonograph record surface.
> It sometimes can be used to repair a crack by allowing the solvent to "wick"
> into the crack and "weld" the two edges, although it will leave additional
> noise as the stylus passes the crack.
> I'm referring to this from a restoration transfer point of view, and not as
> a fix for playing a record on an acoustic record player.
> ... Graham Newton
> Audio Restoration by Graham Newton, http://www.audio-restoration.com
> World class professional services applied to tape or phonograph records for
> consumers and re-releases, featuring CEDAR's new CAMBRIDGE processes.