On 31/07/07, rodbrown wrote:
> Hi folks,
> I've enjoyed the discussion on declicking soundfiles of digitized
> vinyl and/or shellac. One technique I think that may have gone
> unmentioned is the 'Copy Other Channel' tool, available in Sound
Yes, Wave Repair has that too. It can be useful
> I've been pleasantly surprised at how often a loud click in
> one channel has an undamaged near-twin in the opposite channel. Of
> course this is more useful when the original was a monaural
> recording, but it has become one of my reasons for making stereo
> transfers of mono records--there's bound to be plenty of cases where
> I can borrow undamaged or nearly undamaged signal from the other
> groove wall.
> Once a click has been zoomed in on and found to be a good candidate
> (less damaged or click-free audio in one of the two channels), one
> highlights the click in whichever channel it appears. Then click on
> the Copy Other Channel button.
> The other nice option is to use the pencil tool to redraw the damaged
> area, using the click-free channel as a model.
> Now as to reassembling broken 78s, I've used crazy glue with some
> success. (It's always best to use less of this glue rather than more.
> Less crazy glue will spare you a lot of mess, and will set much
> faster.) But I much prefer using 2-inch wide clear packaging tape to
> put broken 78s back together (long enough to capture their audio).
> The basic recipe:
> * arrange the pieces of the record on a very flat surface, such as a
> sheet of plate glass
> * hold them together real snug with one hand (a helper may be useful)
> * position and apply tape with the other hand, so that the break has
> a good area of tape all around it
> * still holding the pieces tight, press the tape down completely
> If the above steps have been done accurately, the opposite side of
> the record may now be playable. Capture it's audio a.s.a.p. If there
> are passages where the tonearm sticks in a groove or jumps ahead (and
> if you have a steady hand) you may be able to use a bird's flight
> feather (or something gently springy) to restrain the tonearm, or to
> urge it along.
> Once the audio from this side has been transferred, move your patient
> back to the plate glass. Try taping up the side just captured
> _before_ removing the tape from the first procedure. On a good day,
> the alignment that worked well for side 1 will also be okay for side
> I've never had the slightest problem with stickum from the tape
> remaining on the surfaces of any record. I normally use Scotch 3M
> clear Packing Tape, but have had no problem with off-brands either.
> Certainly, remove all tape sooner than later, assuming the record
> isn't going into the trash (make back-up copies first).
> Where the process can get tricky is that record pieces don't always
> fit back together as closely as we need them too. Keep a loupe on
> hand, to check whether the groove-ends are aligning properly where
> edges are butted together. If you can't seem to get them to align no
> matter how tightly you hold the pieces together, a very little bit of
> strategic filing of the raw edges (using an emery board or similar)
> can make all the difference.
> I recommend this technique highly, because I've used it to digitize
> records that were broken in as many as five pieces.
> Microgroove recordings are not entirely beyond hope. The first time I
> ever reassembled a broken record (temporarily, but long enough) was
> such a case. Crazy glue was used, rather than tape.
> I put before/after sound files up on my creaky old website, way back
> around the turn of the century. If earthlink hasn't gotten too tired
> of my being slow with payments, you may be able to hear these files
> If the link doesn't work for any reason, interested readers are
> encouraged to send me a shout. I can email the files to you off-list.
> I hope the above suggestions enable the salvaging of some deserving
> Best wishes,
> Rod Brown
> 44 Larry Lane
> Oakland, CA 94611
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