I have to agree with Tom on this, especially if a tape is going to be
shipped!
It seems some of the older tapes appear to unwind to the point that
they'd have 50-100 wraps at least loose and sitting against the box
walls. Quite the mess and some damage.
If it is only sitting on the shelf, it might be OK not to, but once it's
shipped, PLEASE secure the end of the reel or the cassette hubs prior to
shipping.
For cassette hubs, fold over a piece of folded-over paper so that it
grabs both hubs and you're done. Better yet, use the correct case which
has this feature built-in.
Cheers,
Richard
On 2011-09-19 12:29 PM, Tom Fine wrote:
> I've seen the opposite happen with un-secured tapes. Especially with
> old brown-oxide cellulose and early polyester tapes, the layers near
> the reel edge unspool and will curl and/or stiffen over time,
> especially if stored in a variable-humidity environment. If you go
> decades, the whole reel will get loose-packed and the cellulose tape
> will warp. On reels where the tape was secured to the reel or
> otherwise fastened down, I've seen much less damage. The red and blue
> 1/4" tape was also used in many NYC studios in the 60's. Red for
> heads-out, blue for tails-out. Later on, the black and white
> "tiger-stripe" tape became more common, and you'd write on the box
> whether it was heads or tails out (most studio tapes were stored tails
> out, and rewound before playback or further overdubbing use). This may
> have been less common in earlier times, because it's not uncommon to
> hear tape problems (dropouts, flangeing due to badly malformed tape)
> early in the program with remasters of older recordings. I think, but
> I might be wrong on this, that if the tape had been stored tails-out,
> you'd be more likely to have that damage at the end of the program,
> toward the outside of the reel. The way around this, of course, was to
> spool on a few minutes of blank stock before the alignment tones at
> the head, and a few minutes of blank stop after the last fade-out at
> the tail.
>
> -- Tom Fine
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Rooney"
> <[log in to unmask]>
> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2011 12:16 PM
> Subject: Re: [ARSCLIST] Reel to Reel "Thing"
>
>
>> FYI,
>>
>> In the very large number of Columbia masters I handled, the SOP for
>> securing
>> tape ends was ---NONE. They were put into the boxes with the ends left
>> loose. This may not have been followed on the W. Coast, but every pop
>> and
>> Masterworks tape I saw from NYC operations was. Their physical
>> condition is
>> excellent, so I suggest being easy about how to secure ends to reels.
>>
>> DDR
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 3:25 AM, Corey Bailey <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>>
>>> The red and blue "crepe'-y" tape was standard operating procedure in
>>> the
>>> Hollywood recording studio scene from the 1960's forward. It is 1/4'
>>> wide
>>> paper tape and was available at the standard studio supply outlets.
>>> The red
>>> and blue coding scheme was started (If i remember correcytly) by
>>> Columbia
>>> Records. Tapes that were tails out were taped off with blue and red
>>> was for
>>> heads out, usually found on 7" reels. I still have some of that 1/4"
>>> colored
>>> paper tape.
>>>
>>> Cheers!
>>>
>>> Corey
>>> Corey Bailey audio Engineering.
>>>
>>> At 02:51 PM 9/18/2011, you wrote:
>>>
>>>> Please do not use these. I have seen edge damage on incoming tapes
>>>> when
>>>> these are forced over an uneven wind.
>>>>
>>>> Tape the end of the tape to the outside flange of the reel (or to
>>>> itself
>>>> in a pancake. If you can still find Zebra Tape, that is the best
>>>> choice--someone dug up a five-to-ten year supply for me but it's
>>>> all gone
>>>> from that source.
>>>>
>>>> The red and blue crepe-y tape isn't bad.
>>>>
>>>> Scotch 811 removable "Magic" tape works reasonably well for
>>>> something that
>>>> is easy to get at a stationary store.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>> Richard
>>>>
>>>> On 2011-09-18 5:22 PM, Michael Biel wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 9/18/2011 4:18 PM, Rhett McMahon wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I think I found what you seek. On the inside of the box of some
>>>>>> early Scotch tapes: No. 12 - End-Of-Reel Tape Clips.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Clip securely to tape, prevent spilling or tangling in handling,
>>>>>> storage and mailing. Fit inside reel, won't distort reels in
>>>>>> storage. Work equally well on partial or full reels."
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hope this helps. Rhett Rhett McMahon
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> If this is what you have or want to use, DON'T USE IT!! Unless
>>>>> your tape
>>>>> wind is PERFECT it will crease and damage the tape edges. The
>>>>> sides were
>>>>> triangular, about a half inch on each side, and there was a
>>>>> littletab on top
>>>>> to slp the tape in. That tab has a 3m logo. 3m used to sell a
>>>>> great
>>>>> hold-down tape to affix the tape end to a flange (or to itself if
>>>>> you are
>>>>> storing pancakes, It was plastic, black and white striped, 1/4
>>>>> wide, and
>>>>> did not leave a residue. They might still make the paper hold
>>>>> down tape the
>>>>> sold either in red or blue.
>>>>> Regular masking tape is not really good because it hardens into a
>>>>> brick
>>>>> in a few years.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike Biel [log in to unmask]
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Richard L. Hess email: [log in to unmask]
>>>> Aurora, Ontario, Canada (905) 713 6733 1-877-TAPE-FIX
>>>> http://www.richardhess.com/**tape/contact.htm<http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm>
>>>>
>>>> Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes.
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Dennis D. Rooney
>> 303 W. 66th Street, 9HE
>> New York, NY 10023
>> 212.874.9626
>>
>
--
Richard L. Hess email: [log in to unmask]
Aurora, Ontario, Canada (905) 713 6733 1-877-TAPE-FIX
http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm
Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes.
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