Thanks for responding!
So this is an isopropyl drip during unwinding to help loosen the
inter-layer adhesion? Do you apply it just where the tape separates from
I think I'd like to try Peter Copeland's "Grandfather Clock"
On 2013-08-20 11:58 PM, Marie O'Connell wrote:
> I have found using isopropyl alcohol dripped on using a Q-stick frequently,
> a pellon wipe and a re-modified low friction Studer B67 very useful in
> getting the tape on to the take-up reel before even trying to get a signal
> helpful. At least I know I will generally not end up with pull-outs. Once
> it has freed up then I have had few problems after that. Patience is a
> virtue in the first part!
> It doesn't surprise me if this is another 'bad batch' that left the factory
> all those years ago.
> On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 2:31 AM, Richard L. Hess
> <[log in to unmask]>wrote:
>> Hello, Paul, Corey, and Jeff,
>> Thanks for all your replies! I welcome any additional input!
>> Paul, I believe she was using a ReVox PR99 for this particular playback,
>> though there is also an A807 available.
>> Corey, I agree that the Last Factory products as well as Marie's isopropyl
>> drip or my (and others') decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) additional
>> lubrication will all work for playback.
>> This, however, differs from "simple" squealing with the tape rolling off
>> under its own weight. In this case as the tape is unspooled, the weight of
>> the hanging tape is insufficient to immediately leave the pack, the
>> underlying tape layer does hold onto the tape somewhat.
>> Jeff, I agree that it does sound similar to Scotch 201 syndrome but what
>> initially put me off from that is it is a brown oxide tape in a Soundcraft
>> box (though we are not certain it is Soundcraft, obviously).
>> What worries me most about this is that with normal tape pack stresses,
>> this adhesion may be worse towards the hub and, at some point, as with 201,
>> may result in pull-outs. Scotch 201 for the casual reader is an early 1960s
>> tape, the first in the Dynarange series of lower noise with higher output.
>> It is a Standard Play (1200' on a 7-inch reel) tape with black mag coat, no
>> back coat and an ACETATE base film. 202 and 203 were on a polyester base
>> film and were standard play and long play (1800'), respectively.
>> I am still of a mind (as I wrote back in 2008 and before) that loss of
>> lubricant has yet to be proven and that binder degradation (what I proposed
>> we should generically call "soft binder syndrome"--which can have many
>> manifestations including SSS and probably this) has been shown to be a
>> To return to this a bit, tapes that suffer what had commonly been called
>> loss of lubricant (LoL) showed a typical full lubricant load under
>> laboratory analysis. Other laboratory tests showed that the glass
>> transition temperature of the coating had fallen to about 8°C which is why
>> playing the tape at 4°C alleviated the squeal problem. HOWEVER, at least my
>> concept of LoL has never been accompanied by the concept of the tape not
>> rolling off cleanly under its own weight. The adhesion does speak to, well,
>> some adhesive.
>> Though we did not discuss smell, we revisited the possibility of external
>> contamination several times. Within the first few minutes I asked, "what
>> vintage of Coca Cola do you think fell on the tape?" She indicated there
>> was no evidence of any damage in this regard.
>> We did discuss the tape that Nathan Georgitis brought to one of my
>> seminars a few years ago which I do not recall showing any significant
>> signs of water damage, but had spent some time in an attic which apparently
>> had open windows for an extended period and it squealed and suffered
>> pullouts--fortunately mostly on the unrecorded track--but other than the
>> pullouts, I don't recall an overall adhesion layer-to-layer. However, his
>> tape was, I believe, polyester Melody, which was Scotch's answer to
>> Shamrock--an off-brand like Irish/Orr/Ampex's Shamrock which were rejects
>> from the main brand's line of tape.
>> So, there are two questions in my mind:
>> (1) How to spool the tape off without risking damage from pull-outs.
>> As noted in that 2006 blog post, cold dry storage for an extended period
>> may help as well as very slow unwinding as pioneered at the British Library
>> under the late Peter Copeland.
>> (2) How to play the tape without squealing. These blog posts all discuss
>> the problem and several solutions (pun intended)
>> This is a comprehensive list of degrading tapes
>> My tape degradation paper from 2008 is where the concept of cold playback
>> is best developed
>> I hope that helps and I hope to be actually getting my hands on this tape
>> in the next month or so.
>> On 2013-08-20 2:45 AM, Paul Stamler wrote:
>>> One possibly-relevant question: what machine are you using to play the
>> On 2013-08-20 1:15 AM, Corey Bailey wrote:> As you know, I use Last Factory
>> As you know, I use Last Factory
>>> lubricant and have had good results with both acetate backed tape and
>>> magnetic film. I suspect that Marie O'Connels method would work as
>>> well. One could apply the alcohol with an eye dropper instead of
>>> Marie’s setup for a one-off transfer.
>> On 2013-08-20 2:39 AM, Jeff Willens wrote:> Hi Richard,
>> Do you know if there is any odd smell to the tape / tape box? Could some
>>> foreign substance other than water have come in contact with the tape or
>>> Beyond that, it sounds to me like it's a loss of lubricant in the
>>> acetate tape, and/or a variation of the "201 syndrome", since that's
>>> what the symptoms most resemble. Does the pulling get worse the further
>>> in you wind it?
>> Richard L. Hess email: [log in to unmask] Aurora,
>> Ontario, Canada 647 479 2800
>> http://www.richardhess.com/**tape/contact.htm<http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm>Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes.
Richard L. Hess email: [log in to unmask] Aurora,
Ontario, Canada 647 479 2800
http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm Quality tape transfers --
even from hard-to-play tapes.