LISTSERV mailing list manager LISTSERV 16.0

Help for ARSCLIST Archives


ARSCLIST Archives

ARSCLIST Archives


[email protected]


View:

Message:

[

First

|

Previous

|

Next

|

Last

]

By Topic:

[

First

|

Previous

|

Next

|

Last

]

By Author:

[

First

|

Previous

|

Next

|

Last

]

Font:

Proportional Font

LISTSERV Archives

LISTSERV Archives

ARSCLIST Home

ARSCLIST Home

ARSCLIST  March 2015

ARSCLIST March 2015

Subject:

Distressing data point for upcoming ARSC tape playback workshop

From:

Tom Fine <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Association for Recorded Sound Discussion List <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Sun, 1 Mar 2015 09:46:38 -0500

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (86 lines)

I am right now working with tapes from 1959 and 1961, 3-track 1/2" tapes, with splices "replaced" in 
1971 (according to documentation on the boxes) and, in the case of 4 reels, splices cleaned and/or 
replaced in the early 1990s. Alas, every splice so far has needed new cleaning with Naptha and many 
of them -- even those cleaned and successfully played in the 1990s -- have required full 
replacement.

The replacement splicing tape put on in the 1990s has proven mostly stable but there has been some 
ooze and stiction around some splices. I tend to believe that is leftover ooze from non-complete 
cleaning of the original splices before replacement, but it could be new ooze over the past 20 
years.

Bottom line is that there seems to be no "permanent" splicing tape, it all seems to ooze and/or dry 
out over time.

Another distressing datapoint ... This is the second batch of late 1950s Audiotape acetate-backed 
tape I'm dealing with that has become very brittle, like most of the plasticity has dried out of the 
backing. I suspect this is made worse by over-dry storage conditions intended to somehow "prevent" 
or "mitigate" sticky-shed in later tapes (and remember that there is no proof that dry storage does 
either). I wish some scientists would do some chemistry on acetate tapes and come up with better 
storage recommendations. There are millions of acetate tapes and films being stored under the same 
"keep it super-dry and cold" mandates that are imposed on polyester media (and these conditions 
DON'T stave off sticky-shed and DON'T make sticky tapes play longer after baking -- all credible 
research and experience so far shows that ALL tapes prone to sticky-shed go sticky on their own, 
that baking allows playback, and that ALL sticky-shed tapes go back sticky a certain time length 
after baking; the only exceptions might be -- still not widely tried or proven -- the Richardson 
method of chemically removing the back-coating).

Incredibly, these old tapes still sound damn good on playback, and are able to move through a tape 
transport correctly after the splices are cleaned and repaired. I don't know if this will be the 
case at some future date. Luckily, these tapes I'm working with are backed by funding for Plangent 
Process high-resolution transfers and defluttering, so the resulting digital assets will be very 
high quality.

My recommendations, based on this experience:

1. I've now cleaned enough gooey splices with Naptha to be convinced that it is effective and safe 
for this job.Note that many hardware stores carry a can or two or no Naptha at all. It doesn't seem 
to be widely used by professional painters anymore.

2. It's been helpful to carefully detach the reel flanges -- while the tape end is taped down to the 
adjoining layers and the reel is not loose-wound -- and carefully (on a flat surface) clean all 
visible splice ooze (bubbles and chunks of white goo) with Naptha. I put the flange back on and flip 
the reel over very carefully, then do the same on the other side. Sometimes -- not always -- this 
mitigates stiction between layers around the splice, preventing even slight oxide damage on the 
edges.

3. It is important to inspect the layers before and after the splice, and clean all residule goo off 
both sides of the tape.

4. Very gently deal with the splice itself. It can sometimes be gently coaxed up intact -- this 
happens about 50% of the time with original splices on these tapes. When that happens, clean the 
splice edges and center in particular, this is where the ooze will be. When the splice separates, I 
put a good dab of Naptha on the side stuck to the tape-pack, cleaning especially the center of the 
splice. Almost always, a gentle coax with the Q-tip with them lift the splice up so it can be 
repaired. When this doesn't happen, I used a chopstick that I whittled down to a blunt but 
pronounced "shovel" point. No splice points mangled so far with this. I then clean both sides of the 
splice, both sides of the tape, with a good dose of Naptha. By the way, change Q-tips regularly 
because the accumulated sticky ooze stays on the Q-Tip after the Naptha evaporates. Then I repair 
the splice (use a high-quality, non worn-out splicing block, which isn't always to acquire these 
days). I use early 2000's vintage white-colored semi-clear splicing tape. I don't at all like this 
newest thicker blue-colored splicing tape (which seems to be the only option these days). Luckily, I 
have a large store of old-style splicing tape.

5. When playback and transfer is complete, make sure to attach the end of the reel to the adjoining 
tape layer (if it's stored on a hub) or to the reel flange with NEW and EFFECTIVELY STICKY tape. An 
enemy of old tapes, especially acetate tapes, is storage under loose-wind conditions. The acetate 
expands, contracts and sometimes gets vinegar syndrome. If it is stored tight-wound with the end 
taped down, it is less likely to get edge-warp.

6. Under ideal archival conditions, without tight production deadlines and with unlimited funding, I 
would say replace all old splices as SOP. Under real conditions, this is not always possible. 
Because of that, expect to go through this same procedure again if the tape is played again in the 
future. And, given my experience with 1990s splices, I'm not sure that modern splicing tape is any 
better about eventually oozing glue or drying out.

7. This probably goes without saying, but demagnetize the tape path, all metal tools, and work on 
the splice repair on a non-magentic surface.

8. It also probably goes without saying, but use Naptha in a well-ventilated area. John Chester 
turned me onto putting in a little squeeze-bottle with a needle tip and then squeezing a few drops 
onto a Q-Tip rather than having an open container and dipping Q-Tips into that. This method really 
keeps the fumes to a minimum in a normal-sized room. I keep a low-speed fan blowing air across the 
tape transport to move what fumes do escape away from my face.

-- Tom Fine

Top of Message | Previous Page | Permalink

Advanced Options


Options

Log In

Log In

Get Password

Get Password


Search Archives

Search Archives


Subscribe or Unsubscribe

Subscribe or Unsubscribe


Archives

March 2024
February 2024
January 2024
December 2023
November 2023
October 2023
September 2023
August 2023
July 2023
June 2023
May 2023
April 2023
March 2023
February 2023
January 2023
December 2022
November 2022
October 2022
September 2022
August 2022
July 2022
June 2022
May 2022
April 2022
March 2022
February 2022
January 2022
December 2021
November 2021
October 2021
September 2021
August 2021
July 2021
June 2021
May 2021
April 2021
March 2021
February 2021
January 2021
December 2020
November 2020
October 2020
September 2020
August 2020
July 2020
June 2020
May 2020
April 2020
March 2020
February 2020
January 2020
December 2019
November 2019
October 2019
September 2019
August 2019
July 2019
June 2019
May 2019
April 2019
March 2019
February 2019
January 2019
December 2018
November 2018
October 2018
September 2018
August 2018
July 2018
June 2018
May 2018
April 2018
March 2018
February 2018
January 2018
December 2017
November 2017
October 2017
September 2017
August 2017
July 2017
June 2017
May 2017
April 2017
March 2017
February 2017
January 2017
December 2016
November 2016
October 2016
September 2016
August 2016
July 2016
June 2016
May 2016
April 2016
March 2016
February 2016
January 2016
December 2015
November 2015
October 2015
September 2015
August 2015
July 2015
June 2015
May 2015
April 2015
March 2015
February 2015
January 2015
December 2014
November 2014
October 2014
September 2014
August 2014
July 2014
June 2014
May 2014
April 2014
March 2014
February 2014
January 2014
December 2013
November 2013
October 2013
September 2013
August 2013
July 2013
June 2013
May 2013
April 2013
March 2013
February 2013
January 2013
December 2012
November 2012
October 2012
September 2012
August 2012
July 2012
June 2012
May 2012
April 2012
March 2012
February 2012
January 2012
December 2011
November 2011
October 2011
September 2011
August 2011
July 2011
June 2011
May 2011
April 2011
March 2011
February 2011
January 2011
December 2010
November 2010
October 2010
September 2010
August 2010
July 2010
June 2010
May 2010
April 2010
March 2010
February 2010
January 2010
December 2009
November 2009
October 2009
September 2009
August 2009
July 2009
June 2009
May 2009
April 2009
March 2009
February 2009
January 2009
December 2008
November 2008
October 2008
September 2008
August 2008
July 2008
June 2008
May 2008
April 2008
March 2008
February 2008
January 2008
December 2007
November 2007
October 2007
September 2007
August 2007
July 2007
June 2007
May 2007
April 2007
March 2007
February 2007
January 2007
December 2006
November 2006
October 2006
September 2006
August 2006
July 2006
June 2006
May 2006
April 2006
March 2006
February 2006
January 2006
December 2005
November 2005
October 2005
September 2005
August 2005
July 2005
June 2005
May 2005
April 2005
March 2005
February 2005
January 2005
December 2004
November 2004
October 2004
September 2004
August 2004
July 2004
June 2004
May 2004
April 2004
March 2004
February 2004
January 2004
December 2003
November 2003
October 2003
September 2003
August 2003
July 2003
June 2003
May 2003
April 2003
March 2003
February 2003
January 2003

ATOM RSS1 RSS2



LISTSERV.LOC.GOV

CataList Email List Search Powered by the LISTSERV Email List Manager