For the last session in Chapel Hill, a chemist at LC gave a fantastic talk
on disc cleaning, both for palmitic acid and stearic acid. He compared
various home brew remedies like the one you're describing, the conclusions
of the paper in ARSC Journal XXVIII, and a few others. You'd probably
enjoying listening to the audio recording posted on ARSC's web site,
regardless, but it gets at the heart of what you're asking.
On Fri, Apr 17, 2015 at 8:52 AM, Tom Fine <[log in to unmask]>
> Hi Duane:
> What is a "biological grade buffer"? And, are you saying that your
> "Miracle Record Cleaner" with this "bilogical grade buffer" is what is
> needed to remove this white stuff? If so, what is the pricing and how does
> one order?
> I have to say, it would be awesome if there's some liquid I can apply to
> this and remove it. Will it stay removed or is it somewhat akin to
> sticky-shed with tapes (ie it will come back because it's an on-going
> chemical process)?
> By the way, how do you recommend one goes about removing this? It seems
> like a bad idea to gum up my VPI brush and vacuum pad. Can I do this by
> hand with a "shammy cloth"? Afterward, should I water rise or VPI clean?
> -- Tom Fine
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "H D Goldman" <[log in to unmask]>
> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> Sent: Friday, April 17, 2015 11:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [ARSCLIST] lacquer disks with the white stuff on them
> Hi Tom,
>> As has been mentioned a number of times during similar queries, our
>> primary phonograph record cleaning solution has been shown to readily &
>> safely deal with this problem. Heavy contamination can overwhelm the
>> buffer capacity of this solution & often require a second application prior
>> to a rinse.
>> For more than a few discs, the double washing is too time consuming & we
>> augmented the primary cleaning solution with a specific biological-grade
>> buffer to afford thorough cleaning in a single wash/rinse application.
>> Using ammonia-based solutions to deal with these residues is an alternate
>> approach but this can generate higher hydroxide concentrations that are
>> potentially reactive with the substrate. I prefer to avoid the
>> possibility. The buffered solution is recommended when needed & not listed
>> publicly to keep users from paying for materials they don’t need.
>> Private & institutional use has shown both products to be safe &
>> effective. Your milage may vary.
>> Duane Goldman
>> H D Goldman Lagniappe Chemicals Ltd.
>> PO Box 37066 St. Louis, MO 63141 USA
>> v/f 314 205 1388 [log in to unmask]
>> On Apr 17, 2015, at 7:06 AM, Tom Fine <[log in to unmask]>
>>> I have some lacquers with the sticky white stuff on them. Substances
>>> have been mentioned here on how to clean it off, but could someone who has
>>> actual experience doing this please write up a "for dummies" process,
>>> including exactly what substances need to be acquired and where to acquire
>>> them? Much appreciated!
>>> Previous discussions remind me a bit of talk on the Ampex list about
>>> cleaning gooey splices. Lots of chemical names were bandied about, with no
>>> references as to what it's actually called in the marketplace or where to
>>> buy it. Finally, I asked an expert (John Chester), hey what are you using
>>> nowadays since we can't get the old kind of "freon" anymore? Naptha, called
>>> exactly that and sold at most hardware stores. John further sent me links
>>> to the lab/medical bottles, syring-type applicator and other tools he uses
>>> to successfully clean and spool splices without ripping oxide. Now THAT was
>>> helpful. Would love the same kind of info about how to deal with lacquers
>>> with the sticky white stuff on them.
>>> -- Tom Fine