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I've copied a number of LPs that presented this problem and followed  
this procedure. When the skipping was encountered, I would very  
carefully apply pressure to the side of the cartridge with a small  
brush until the needle would move on into the next groove. Some times  
this took a few tries as what one wants to do is have the needle move  
on without skipping a groove. One only wants the pressure there while  
it is skipping, not after it moves into the correct groove. If the  
skip jumps a groove, a problem I didn't encounter, one would probably  
need to apply the brush on the other side of the cartridge. This  
leaves one with an error that audio software is able to remove,  
especially if there is a clear metronomic beat in the music. Also,  
each rotation takes a very specific amount of time so a multiple of  
this is the correct length of the edit. If the brush is the right  
size, there is a relaxation of the pressure when the needle moves  
over. There's some trial and error in doing this.

Malcolm Smith.

On Aug 20, 2008, at 11:31 AM, Steven Smolian wrote:

> I have strong, pushy fingers.  A dental tool helped.
>
> Steve
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Brock-Nannestad"  
> <[log in to unmask]>
> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 2:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [ARSCLIST] ET help!
>
>
>> From: Patent Tactics, George Brock-Nannestad
>>
>>> I recently did a job where I was able to create tracking through  
>>> with
>>> plastic clay.
>>>
>>> Steve Smolian
>>
>> ----- wow! Was that a lacquer record? The layer is awfully thin.  
>> My main use
>> of plastic clay has been to exclude oxygen on cracks cemented with  
>> cyano-
>> acrylate (shellac-base record), because it can be removed from the  
>> grooves
>> afterwards without damaging them.
>>
>> Kind regards,
>>
>>
>> George
>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Brock-Nannestad"  
>>> <[log in to unmask]>
>>> To: <[log in to unmask]>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 12:16 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [ARSCLIST] ET help!
>>>
>>>
>>> > From: Patent Tactics, George Brock-Nannestad
>>> >
>>> > Matt Sohn recalled:
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >> >> I've a pretty good hand at transferring ETs, but the
>>> >> >> cracks in the lacquer
>>> >> >> make this one a real challenge.  Is there any way of
>>> >> >> restoring these
>>> >> >> grooves?  I thought of prying off some of the lacquer in
>>> >> >> chunks to glue back
>>> >> >> in place, but I'm not sure the grooves would line up even
>>> >> >> then.
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> I recall talking to someone a long time ago who said he used
>>> >> clear nail polish to fill in the cracks. I don't remember
>>> >> who it was or how exactly he did it, or what possible damage
>>> >> to the disc might result from such a procedure, but I
>>> >> thought I'd pass it along..
>>> >
>>> > ----- I would not recommend nail polish. While the softening  
>>> agent is
>>> nice
>>> > and makes for a tough coat, the solvents are the same as for  
>>> cellulose
>>> > nitrate - because nail polish is mostly cellulose nitrate! This  
>>> means
>>> that
>>> > you would eat into the edges of the lacquer layer. This makes  
>>> for > better
>>> > bonding but also rounded curves. And you still have to cut a  
>>> groove to
>>> > carry
>>> > the stylus from where it leaves lacquer to the correct place at  
>>> the > other
>>> > end
>>> > of the gap. And, as I said, nail polish is tough!
>>> >
>>> > I have had good results with waxes (low-melting micro-waxes).  
>>> BUT, > waxes
>>> > usually implies heating and applying it in liquid form. On an  
>>> aluminum
>>> > base
>>> > the heat of solidification will be distributed to other areas,  
>>> causing
>>> > differential heating, and who knows what damage that might  
>>> cause. On > glass
>>> > it
>>> > is safer. Using a solvent for the wax that is not also a  
>>> solvent for > the
>>> > cellulose nitrate (paraffin would work for some waxes) would  
>>> permit
>>> > application of the liquid and then wait for the solvent to  
>>> evaporate.
>>> You
>>> > need to cut grooves under the microscope to connect correctly,  
>>> but that
>>> is
>>> > simple - the worst crack I have come across was 3.5 millimeters  
>>> > (narrowing
>>> > to
>>> > zero over 40 mm, and a ruler to support the scriber was quite >  
>>> sufficient.
>>> > And
>>> > the wax is very easy to cut.
>>> >
>>> > But you have to remember that the shrunken lacquer also has a  
>>> shrunken
>>> > time-
>>> > base, so it is not just a question of removing the clicks of  
>>> silence, > but
>>> > of
>>> > stretching time, perhaps 5%, perhaps less, of the sound you do  
>>> obtain.
>>> >
>>> > Again, like Eric said, it takes experience, and whose lacquer  
>>> record is
>>> to
>>> > suffer?
>>> >
>>> > Kind regards,
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > George
>>> >
>