If a person can't afford a scrubber/vacuum machine (a legitimate concern, although the lower-end VPI 
and an even lower-end VPI-wannabe machine sell for just a few hundred bucks), then I recommend the 
following ...

Get two large-sized "shammy cloths" -- record-cleaning clothes are sold at Sleeve City and 

Get a soft cleaning brush. The Stanton-branded brush is fine for this, so is an old Discwasher brush 
as long as it's in good shape. A soft synthetic sponge will also work.

Get the record-cleaning fluid of your choice, Duane's comes highly recommended, as an example.

Put your record flat on top of one shammy cloth. Pour enough cleaning fluid onto the surface to 
thoroughly wet it but not enough to saturate the label. Carefully brush the record with the brush, 
going in the direction recommended by the brush maker (usually counter-clockwise). When you are 
satisfied that the brush has deep-cleaned the record, wipe off the record gently with a clean shammy 
cloth. Then repeat the process with distilled or reverse-osmosis water. Do the other side the same.

My bet is, you'll get equally good results in less than 20 minutes per both sides as opposed to 20 
hours per side with the silly glue process. For non-filthy records, I think the Spin-Clean device is 
fine, I don't think you're "bathing an a vat of filth" unless you're washing filthy records and not 
changing the fluid often enough. But different strokes for different folks. One who has doubts about 
the Spin-Clean could do the water rinse I described after using the Spin-Clean for scrubbing. All of 
that said, I think the best way to clean records is something akin to a VPI, a machine that both 
scrubs and vacuum-dries the records on a moving turntable.

Another point -- if you have a record so filthy that it needs these extreme methods such as wood 
glue, it's going to sound like crap when it's played anyway, 9.99999 times out of 10. The filth 
itself has likely scratched it beyond hope of decent playback. So unless it's something super-rare, 
your time and money would be better spent tracking down a better-condition copy.

-- Tom Fine

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ahamilton" <[log in to unmask]>
To: <[log in to unmask]>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: [ARSCLIST] Details on vinyl to digital re-mastering

> Pretty much everyone who is having success is using Tite Bond or Tite Bond Extend...
> Tite Bond brand is the only recipe I tried, and it worked as described.
> Andrew
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Milan P Milovanovic" <[log in to unmask]>
> To: <[log in to unmask]>
> Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2012 10:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [ARSCLIST] Details on vinyl to digital re-mastering
>>I think that Duane Goldman on some other forums spoke against using wood glue or similar 
>>substances for cleaning records.
>> As for myself I tried method on some LPs and discovered that some wood glue type are aggressive 
>> to record surface by blurring them (visible in the dead wax area) or even making them look like 
>> they were dissolved, white or similar.
>> Milan
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Doug Pomeroy" <[log in to unmask]>
>> To: <[log in to unmask]>
>> Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2012 4:34 PM
>> Subject: Re: [ARSCLIST] Details on vinyl to digital re-mastering
>> An historical note: British engineer Reg Williamson developed a similar product many years ago
>> for cleaning LPs called ELVANOL, Polyvinyl Alcohol 85-82 (Reg US Patent Office).  It is a
>> white powder you mix with isopropyl alcohol and apply to the LP surface and after it dries
>> you pull it off as a single sheet and it takes the contaminants with it. I still have a container
>> of ELVANOL but have never used it.
>> Doug Pomeroy
>> Audio Restoration & Mastering Services
>> [log in to unmask]
>>> Date:    Sat, 8 Sep 2012 07:35:19 -0400
>>> From:    Andrew Hamilton <[log in to unmask]>
>>> Subject: Re: Details on vinyl to digital re-mastering
>>> I recommend one try it first only on sides which are quite horrendous =20=
>>> for their content / presentation, as well as degree of debris =20
>>> covering them, in order to get the technique sorted.   It's best to =20
>>> have a dedicated tt that is broken, say, so that you can use it for =20
>>> all your glue-cleaning.   (Too bad it doesn't require "hot glue" - =20
>>> hehe).   The stuff in Tite Bond, anyway, doesn't adhere, once dry, to =20=
>>> the pvc.   But it _does_ adhere to almost everything else.   I tried =20
>>> it on a little Wagner a while back and have the glue doughnut, still, =20=
>>> from the perfect pull - which was my sole effort at this, to date.   =20
>>> The record is fine and clean as a whistle, and the doughnut's mirror-=20
>>> like image of the grooves looks dern near playable, had I a =20
>>> bifurcated stylus in my kit.  (Is that _all_ I'd need for playing =20
>>> back a "father?" - not that this would be a normal sort of father - =20
>>> more like a son of a disc..).
>>> Andrew