Hi Tom,

As has been mentioned a number of times during similar queries, our primary phonograph record cleaning solution has been shown to readily & safely deal with this problem.  Heavy contamination can overwhelm the buffer capacity of this solution & often require a second application prior to a rinse.

For more than a few discs, the double washing is too time consuming & we augmented the primary cleaning solution with a specific biological-grade buffer to afford thorough cleaning in a single wash/rinse application.

Using ammonia-based solutions to deal with these residues is an alternate approach but this can generate higher hydroxide concentrations that are potentially reactive with the substrate.  I prefer to avoid the possibility.  The buffered solution is recommended when needed & not listed publicly to keep users from paying for materials they don’t need.

Private & institutional use has shown both products to be safe & effective.  Your milage may vary.


Duane Goldman

H D Goldman Lagniappe Chemicals Ltd. 
PO Box 37066 St. Louis, MO 63141 USA
v/f 314 205 1388 [log in to unmask]

> On Apr 17, 2015, at 7:06 AM, Tom Fine <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> I have some lacquers with the sticky white stuff on them. Substances have been mentioned here on how to clean it off, but could someone who has actual experience doing this please write up a "for dummies" process, including exactly what substances need to be acquired and where to acquire them? Much appreciated!
> Previous discussions remind me a bit of talk on the Ampex list about cleaning gooey splices. Lots of chemical names were bandied about, with no references as to what it's actually called in the marketplace or where to buy it. Finally, I asked an expert (John Chester), hey what are you using nowadays since we can't get the old kind of "freon" anymore? Naptha, called exactly that and sold at most hardware stores. John further sent me links to the lab/medical bottles, syring-type applicator and other tools he uses to successfully clean and spool splices without ripping oxide. Now THAT was helpful. Would love the same kind of info about how to deal with lacquers with the sticky white stuff on them.
> -- Tom Fine