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Hi Corey,

Thanks for the info!  I imagine it would be unlikely to get through customs
here in NZ.

Cheers
Marie

On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 5:34 PM, Corey Bailey <[log in to unmask]>
wrote:

> Hi Marie,
>
> I gave the MSDS for Tape Last to Warner Bros. Studios in Burbank, CA and
> apparently did not keep a copy. That said, I would go to their website
> (your link) and click on the button "Ask Walt". The "Walt" being referred
> to is Walt Davies who is the one who provided me with the MSDS.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Corey
>
> Corey Bailey Audio Engineering
> www.baileyzone.net
>
> On 10/1/2017 11:15 PM, Marie O'Connell wrote:
>
>> Hi Corey,
>>
>> Can you please tell me what exactly is Last Tape Preservative?
>> https://thelastfactory.com/last-tape-preservative/
>>
>> It says to - "Engage fast wind (or rewind)" which I find worrisome.
>>
>> Regards
>> Marie
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 2, 2017 at 6:40 PM, Corey Bailey <[log in to unmask]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Eli,
>>>
>>> To address your question: The tape would be baked when dry. All
>>> contaminants (Mold, moisture, etc.) will have been removed and any
>>> leaders
>>> replaced that need it. For me, baking an analog (or digital) tape is the
>>> last resort. Baking has consequences and not enough research (IMHO) has
>>> been done as to what those consequences are. In 2015, Goran Finnberg
>>> posted
>>> to the ARSC list that he had measured an increase in AM distortion with
>>> the
>>> first baking of audio tape and the AM distortion increased with
>>> subsequent
>>> baking. This would possibly explain the changes in overall fidelity that
>>> I
>>> and others have noticed as the result of baking. However, there has been
>>> no
>>> follow-up by Groan so, at this point, I would have to consider his
>>> comments
>>> as anecdotal. What I do for PVC based tapes, that exhibit SSS, is to
>>> generously apply Tape Last from The Last Factory. I have found Tape Last
>>> to
>>> be about 95% effective when it comes to making problem tapes playable.
>>> If,
>>> after treatment, the tape is still cranky and won't behave, it gets
>>> baked.
>>> I have been assured by The Last Factory that baking a tape which has been
>>> treated will have no consequences and my experience supports that claim.
>>> Last Factory has also said that treating an analog tape with Tape Last
>>> will
>>> enhance the shelf life but I personally have no evidence to support their
>>> claim. Tape Last is expensive and the process is time consuming so
>>> institutions with large holdings will bake first and ask questions later.
>>> It's simply a matter of economics.
>>>
>>> Disclaimer:
>>>
>>> I have no connection with The Last Factory and receive no compensation,
>>> in
>>> any form, from them.
>>>
>>> Cheers!
>>>
>>> Corey
>>>
>>> Corey Bailey Audio Engineering
>>> www.baileyzone.net
>>>
>>> On 10/1/2017 11:40 AM, Eli Bildirici wrote:
>>>
>>> <SNIP>
>>>>
>>>> Also - to clarify, should I soak, wait for it to dry a bit, and then
>>>> attempt to bake? I'm also not quite sure I understood re how 'removing
>>>> the
>>>> grille' helps. Isn't the issue that the central hole is to wide? It
>>>> looks
>>>> like we'd have to somehow modify one of the trays in order to get a
>>>> 7"er on
>>>> there, right?
>>>>
>>>> September 28 2017 11:34 AM, "Richard L. Hess" <[log in to unmask]
>>>> >
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> When I do moldy tapes, I use a NIOSH dual-cartridge respirator.
>>>>>
>>>>> Don't risk your health.
>>>>>
>>>>> On 2017-09-27 11:29 PM, Corey Bailey wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi Eli,
>>>>>
>>>>>> Sorry, I didn't see your question about the "Soaking". I had a tape >
>>>>>> similar to your problem tape
>>>>>> and here's what I did: I used a round film > can and (literally)
>>>>>> submerged the 7" reel of tape in
>>>>>> medical alcoholfor > about an hour. You can submerge the tape for
>>>>>> longer if you think it > needs it
>>>>>> because (IMHO) pure alcohol does not harm PVC base audio tape. >
>>>>>> Others
>>>>>> may differ. After the
>>>>>> "Soaking", I unwound the tape, slowly, by > hand, while wiping with
>>>>>> pellon. Much the same as you
>>>>>> describe except I > use a modified 8MM film editor for this task. I
>>>>>> had
>>>>>> to replace every > leader
>>>>>> on this particular tape and there were lots of them. Mold is > serious
>>>>>> business. Much of it is
>>>>>> microscopic and the spores get > everywhere. If you are indoors, you
>>>>>> need a "clean room" that is
>>>>>> isolated > from everything else. I set up outside, away from anything
>>>>>> that may be > subject to mold
>>>>>> contamination. Only after I was confident that I had > conquered the
>>>>>> mold contamination, did I
>>>>>> consider baking the tape. In > this case, the tape did not need to be
>>>>>> baked. The tape (Again, IMHO)
>>>>>> was > Scotch 206 and played fine after restoration*. * Restoration
>>>>>> included > lubricating the
>>>>>> entire tape...Another topic for another time.
>>>>>> Corey
>>>>>> Corey Bailey Audio Engineering
>>>>>> www.baileyzone.net
>>>>>> On 9/27/2017 1:27 PM, Eli Bildirici wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Shai wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> "The bleed through could also be print through. It actually doesn't
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> look as
>>>>>>> bad as I thought. I would start with a low temp bake (about 40 >>
>>>>>>> Celsius) for
>>>>>>> 24-48 hours.Next I would try to unspool and clean a short length of
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> tape to
>>>>>>> see if any flaking occurs. If not I would clean the rest of the tape
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> try to play. If it still give trouble I would rebake for antoher 24
>>>>>>> hours
>>>>>>> at 55 Celsius."
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks. What we've had to do however, as nearly all of our content >>
>>>>>>> left to digitize and
>>>>>>> catalogue
>>>>>>> are on 7" reels, is first transfer them onto a 10" one, as that's
>>>>>>> what
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> fits in our dehydrator:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> https://imgur.com/sCyrUqK
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm realizing based on these comments though that this is far from >>
>>>>>>> ideal (and follows logically,
>>>>>>> at that), so if anybody has advice as to >> particular models of
>>>>>>> dehydrators that can accommodate
>>>>>>> reels of this >> size, I'm all ears.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Corey - can you elaborate on the 'soaking' process? What we've been
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> doing until now is using a
>>>>>>> dedicated R2R solely for cleaning, playing >> through a tape while
>>>>>>> holding a bit of Pellon with
>>>>>>> some 99% isopropyl >> alcohol against it as it spools. Soaking it
>>>>>>> without unspooling is of >>
>>>>>>> course very different - how long do you think? How deep? Should it go
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> straight from having been
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> soaked (ideally) into the dehydrator?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Would you guys propose checking the tape whilst it's being baked
>>>>>>> every
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> 24 hours?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Increasingly, many of our reels left to process appear to have a
>>>>>>> bunch
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> of different, unrelated
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> segments strewn together, sometimes in the >> wrong direction and
>>>>>>> rarely with any kind of
>>>>>>> indication as to what's on >> there. Often if not always, if leader
>>>>>>> is
>>>>>>> used to separate the
>>>>>>> segments >> at all, it is paper. In case there is no mold, but the
>>>>>>> tapes are >> shedding, should
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I looked at Richard Hess's site yesterday and found this reference:
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> http://richardhess.com/notes/formats/magnetic-media/magnetic
>>>>>>> -tapes/analog-audio/degrading-tapes >>
>>>>>>> I don't think there's a way to identify tape stock by sight though,
>>>>>>> so
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> it looks like this
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> doesn't help me much. I've been going through the >> Specs site,
>>>>>>> meanwhile. Among the more
>>>>>>> interesting things is the >> implication that this white residue I'm
>>>>>>> seeing...isn't actually mold?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> But instead may "indicate breakdown of various chemical components":
>>>>>>>> http://www.specsbros.com/white-paper-basic-inspection-techni
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ques-to-sample-the-condition-of-magnetic
>>>>>>> tape.html >>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm not sure what, if any, ramifications this could have.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> E
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> September 27 2017 2:53 PM, "Corey Bailey" <[log in to unmask]>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hi Eli,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You have a host of problems with this reel of tape (preaching to the
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> choir here): Mold,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Shedding
>>>>>> which may require some baking, and segments separated by paper >>>
>>>>>> leader. Paper leader is not bad
>>>>>> by
>>>>>> itself but, in this case, it's adding to the problem because of mold
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> and moisture absorption.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> 1) Address the mold. Baking a moldy tape will contaminate your oven.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Avoid (if you can) any
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> water
>>>>>> based mold killing products. Pure alcohol work well as a first or >>>
>>>>>> second application. Soaking
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> tape with alcohol may reduce the sticky layer problem to the point >>>
>>>>>> that it can be carefully
>>>>>> unwound
>>>>>> to move on to step 2.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 2) Replace the paper leader with plastic leader. I've also used blank
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Polyester tape (reversed)
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> as
>>>>>> leader. Then, continue with mold removal because you want to remove
>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>> ALL of the mold.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 3) Bake the tape if you think it is safe to do so. Bake looow (Temp)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> and sloow: Less than 49C
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> (120F) for as long as it takes. 24 to 48 hours would not be
>>>>>> uncommon.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I would suggest using a
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> dehydrator for this particular application or, any unit that you can
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> safely dispose of because
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> contamination may be unavoidable, rendering the baking device >>>
>>>>>> unusable for anything else.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Check with Peter Brothers to see if Specs Bros. may have some advice:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> http://www.specsbros.com
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> You may have to decide which is more important: Saving the tape or
>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>> saving the equipment.
>>>>>> Corporate
>>>>>> America, in my experience, would decide that the process is too >>>
>>>>>> expensive and chuck the tape.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Advise is free so, contact me off-list if you like.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sorry,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Corey
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Corey Bailey Audio Engineering
>>>>>> www.baileyzone.net
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 9/26/2017 1:56 PM, Eli Bildirici wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> We all just double-checked and it looks like polyester rather than
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> acetate. My guess is the
>>>>>> angle
>>>>>> of my phone and the way the sunlight was hitting the tape made it >>>>
>>>>>> look wrong. Do you have any
>>>>>> advice re baking?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> September 26 2017 4:27 PM, "John Chester" <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>>>>>> On 9/26/17 4:10 PM, Ted Kendall wrote:
>>>>>> If you are getting what I think you mean by bleedthrough, bits of >
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> oxide have already lifted
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>> stuck to the back of adjacent turns. If > you have played it, it's
>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> probably too late to do
>>>>>> much,
>>>>>> but you could > start by baking and see what can be salvaged.
>>>>>> The loose end of the tape which I see in the photos is red oxide with
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> no backcoating. Tapes
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> without backcoating rarely need to be baked. If any of the tape on
>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>> this reel is acetate base,
>>>>>> it
>>>>>> should absolutely not be baked. To check for acetate base, hold the
>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>> reel up to a light -- if
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> can see light through the tape pack, it's acetate.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The nightmare scenario is a mixed reel that's got sticky-shed tape on
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> the outside, and acetate
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> tape
>>>>>> further into the reel. In that case, you pretty much have to decide
>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>> which you will save,
>>>>>> because
>>>>>> you probably can't save both. Baking will ruin the acetate, and >>>
>>>>>> unspooling the sticky-shed tape
>>>>>> without baking may leave large chunks of oxide stuck to the
>>>>>> backcoating.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- John Chester
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Eli Bildirici
>>>>>>> (347) 837-8337
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -- Richard L. Hess email: [log in to unmask]
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Aurora, Ontario, Canada 647 479 2800
>>>>> http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm
>>>>> Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes.
>>>>>
>>>>> Eli Bildirici
>>>> (347) 837-8337
>>>>
>>>>