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Hi Corey,

Can you please tell me what exactly is Last Tape Preservative?
https://thelastfactory.com/last-tape-preservative/

It says to - "Engage fast wind (or rewind)" which I find worrisome.

Regards
Marie



On Mon, Oct 2, 2017 at 6:40 PM, Corey Bailey <[log in to unmask]>
wrote:

> Hi Eli,
>
> To address your question: The tape would be baked when dry. All
> contaminants (Mold, moisture, etc.) will have been removed and any leaders
> replaced that need it. For me, baking an analog (or digital) tape is the
> last resort. Baking has consequences and not enough research (IMHO) has
> been done as to what those consequences are. In 2015, Goran Finnberg posted
> to the ARSC list that he had measured an increase in AM distortion with the
> first baking of audio tape and the AM distortion increased with subsequent
> baking. This would possibly explain the changes in overall fidelity that I
> and others have noticed as the result of baking. However, there has been no
> follow-up by Groan so, at this point, I would have to consider his comments
> as anecdotal. What I do for PVC based tapes, that exhibit SSS, is to
> generously apply Tape Last from The Last Factory. I have found Tape Last to
> be about 95% effective when it comes to making problem tapes playable. If,
> after treatment, the tape is still cranky and won't behave, it gets baked.
> I have been assured by The Last Factory that baking a tape which has been
> treated will have no consequences and my experience supports that claim.
> Last Factory has also said that treating an analog tape with Tape Last will
> enhance the shelf life but I personally have no evidence to support their
> claim. Tape Last is expensive and the process is time consuming so
> institutions with large holdings will bake first and ask questions later.
> It's simply a matter of economics.
>
> Disclaimer:
>
> I have no connection with The Last Factory and receive no compensation, in
> any form, from them.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Corey
>
> Corey Bailey Audio Engineering
> www.baileyzone.net
>
> On 10/1/2017 11:40 AM, Eli Bildirici wrote:
>
>> <SNIP>
>>
>> Also - to clarify, should I soak, wait for it to dry a bit, and then
>> attempt to bake? I'm also not quite sure I understood re how 'removing the
>> grille' helps. Isn't the issue that the central hole is to wide? It looks
>> like we'd have to somehow modify one of the trays in order to get a 7"er on
>> there, right?
>>
>> September 28 2017 11:34 AM, "Richard L. Hess" <[log in to unmask]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> When I do moldy tapes, I use a NIOSH dual-cartridge respirator.
>>>
>>> Don't risk your health.
>>>
>>> On 2017-09-27 11:29 PM, Corey Bailey wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Eli,
>>>> Sorry, I didn't see your question about the "Soaking". I had a tape >
>>>> similar to your problem tape
>>>> and here's what I did: I used a round film > can and (literally)
>>>> submerged the 7" reel of tape in
>>>> medical alcoholfor > about an hour. You can submerge the tape for
>>>> longer if you think it > needs it
>>>> because (IMHO) pure alcohol does not harm PVC base audio tape. > Others
>>>> may differ. After the
>>>> "Soaking", I unwound the tape, slowly, by > hand, while wiping with
>>>> pellon. Much the same as you
>>>> describe except I > use a modified 8MM film editor for this task. I had
>>>> to replace every > leader
>>>> on this particular tape and there were lots of them. Mold is > serious
>>>> business. Much of it is
>>>> microscopic and the spores get > everywhere. If you are indoors, you
>>>> need a "clean room" that is
>>>> isolated > from everything else. I set up outside, away from anything
>>>> that may be > subject to mold
>>>> contamination. Only after I was confident that I had > conquered the
>>>> mold contamination, did I
>>>> consider baking the tape. In > this case, the tape did not need to be
>>>> baked. The tape (Again, IMHO)
>>>> was > Scotch 206 and played fine after restoration*. * Restoration
>>>> included > lubricating the
>>>> entire tape...Another topic for another time.
>>>> Corey
>>>> Corey Bailey Audio Engineering
>>>> www.baileyzone.net
>>>> On 9/27/2017 1:27 PM, Eli Bildirici wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Shai wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> "The bleed through could also be print through. It actually doesn't >>
>>>>> look as
>>>>> bad as I thought. I would start with a low temp bake (about 40 >>
>>>>> Celsius) for
>>>>> 24-48 hours.Next I would try to unspool and clean a short length of >>
>>>>> tape to
>>>>> see if any flaking occurs. If not I would clean the rest of the tape
>>>>> and
>>>>> try to play. If it still give trouble I would rebake for antoher 24
>>>>> hours
>>>>> at 55 Celsius."
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks. What we've had to do however, as nearly all of our content >>
>>>>> left to digitize and
>>>>> catalogue
>>>>> are on 7" reels, is first transfer them onto a 10" one, as that's what
>>>>> >> fits in our dehydrator:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://imgur.com/sCyrUqK
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm realizing based on these comments though that this is far from >>
>>>>> ideal (and follows logically,
>>>>> at that), so if anybody has advice as to >> particular models of
>>>>> dehydrators that can accommodate
>>>>> reels of this >> size, I'm all ears.
>>>>>
>>>>> Corey - can you elaborate on the 'soaking' process? What we've been >>
>>>>> doing until now is using a
>>>>> dedicated R2R solely for cleaning, playing >> through a tape while
>>>>> holding a bit of Pellon with
>>>>> some 99% isopropyl >> alcohol against it as it spools. Soaking it
>>>>> without unspooling is of >>
>>>>> course very different - how long do you think? How deep? Should it go
>>>>> >> straight from having been
>>>>> soaked (ideally) into the dehydrator?
>>>>>
>>>>> Would you guys propose checking the tape whilst it's being baked every
>>>>> >> 24 hours?
>>>>>
>>>>> Increasingly, many of our reels left to process appear to have a bunch
>>>>> >> of different, unrelated
>>>>> segments strewn together, sometimes in the >> wrong direction and
>>>>> rarely with any kind of
>>>>> indication as to what's on >> there. Often if not always, if leader is
>>>>> used to separate the
>>>>> segments >> at all, it is paper. In case there is no mold, but the
>>>>> tapes are >> shedding, should
>>>>>
>>>>> I looked at Richard Hess's site yesterday and found this reference: >>
>>>>> http://richardhess.com/notes/formats/magnetic-media/magnetic
>>>>> -tapes/analog-audio/degrading-tapes >>
>>>>> I don't think there's a way to identify tape stock by sight though, so
>>>>> >> it looks like this
>>>>> doesn't help me much. I've been going through the >> Specs site,
>>>>> meanwhile. Among the more
>>>>> interesting things is the >> implication that this white residue I'm
>>>>> seeing...isn't actually mold?
>>>>>
>>>>>> But instead may "indicate breakdown of various chemical components":
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://www.specsbros.com/white-paper-basic-inspection-techni
>>>>> ques-to-sample-the-condition-of-magnetic
>>>>> tape.html >>
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm not sure what, if any, ramifications this could have.
>>>>>
>>>>> E
>>>>>
>>>>> September 27 2017 2:53 PM, "Corey Bailey" <[log in to unmask]>
>>>>> >> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>> Hi Eli,
>>>>
>>>> You have a host of problems with this reel of tape (preaching to the
>>>> >>> choir here): Mold,
>>>> Shedding
>>>> which may require some baking, and segments separated by paper >>>
>>>> leader. Paper leader is not bad
>>>> by
>>>> itself but, in this case, it's adding to the problem because of mold
>>>> >>> and moisture absorption.
>>>>
>>>> 1) Address the mold. Baking a moldy tape will contaminate your oven.
>>>> >>> Avoid (if you can) any
>>>> water
>>>> based mold killing products. Pure alcohol work well as a first or >>>
>>>> second application. Soaking
>>>> the
>>>> tape with alcohol may reduce the sticky layer problem to the point >>>
>>>> that it can be carefully
>>>> unwound
>>>> to move on to step 2.
>>>>
>>>> 2) Replace the paper leader with plastic leader. I've also used blank
>>>> >>> Polyester tape (reversed)
>>>> as
>>>> leader. Then, continue with mold removal because you want to remove >>>
>>>> ALL of the mold.
>>>>
>>>> 3) Bake the tape if you think it is safe to do so. Bake looow (Temp)
>>>> >>> and sloow: Less than 49C
>>>> (120F) for as long as it takes. 24 to 48 hours would not be uncommon.
>>>> >>> I would suggest using a
>>>> dehydrator for this particular application or, any unit that you can
>>>> >>> safely dispose of because
>>>> contamination may be unavoidable, rendering the baking device >>>
>>>> unusable for anything else.
>>>>
>>>> Check with Peter Brothers to see if Specs Bros. may have some advice:
>>>> >>> http://www.specsbros.com
>>>>
>>>> You may have to decide which is more important: Saving the tape or >>>
>>>> saving the equipment.
>>>> Corporate
>>>> America, in my experience, would decide that the process is too >>>
>>>> expensive and chuck the tape.
>>>>
>>>> Advise is free so, contact me off-list if you like.
>>>>
>>>> Sorry,
>>>>
>>>> Corey
>>>>
>>>> Corey Bailey Audio Engineering
>>>> www.baileyzone.net
>>>>
>>>> On 9/26/2017 1:56 PM, Eli Bildirici wrote:
>>>>
>>>> We all just double-checked and it looks like polyester rather than >>>>
>>>> acetate. My guess is the
>>>> angle
>>>> of my phone and the way the sunlight was hitting the tape made it >>>>
>>>> look wrong. Do you have any
>>>> advice re baking?
>>>>
>>>> September 26 2017 4:27 PM, "John Chester" <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
>>>> On 9/26/17 4:10 PM, Ted Kendall wrote:
>>>> If you are getting what I think you mean by bleedthrough, bits of >
>>>> >>>> oxide have already lifted
>>>> and
>>>> stuck to the back of adjacent turns. If > you have played it, it's >>>>
>>>> probably too late to do
>>>> much,
>>>> but you could > start by baking and see what can be salvaged.
>>>> The loose end of the tape which I see in the photos is red oxide with
>>>> >>> no backcoating. Tapes
>>>> without backcoating rarely need to be baked. If any of the tape on >>>
>>>> this reel is acetate base,
>>>> it
>>>> should absolutely not be baked. To check for acetate base, hold the >>>
>>>> reel up to a light -- if
>>>> you
>>>> can see light through the tape pack, it's acetate.
>>>>
>>>> The nightmare scenario is a mixed reel that's got sticky-shed tape on
>>>> >>> the outside, and acetate
>>>> tape
>>>> further into the reel. In that case, you pretty much have to decide >>>
>>>> which you will save,
>>>> because
>>>> you probably can't save both. Baking will ruin the acetate, and >>>
>>>> unspooling the sticky-shed tape
>>>> without baking may leave large chunks of oxide stuck to the backcoating.
>>>>
>>>> -- John Chester
>>>>
>>>>> Eli Bildirici
>>>>> (347) 837-8337
>>>>>
>>>> -- Richard L. Hess email: [log in to unmask]
>>>>
>>> Aurora, Ontario, Canada 647 479 2800
>>> http://www.richardhess.com/tape/contact.htm
>>> Quality tape transfers -- even from hard-to-play tapes.
>>>
>> Eli Bildirici
>> (347) 837-8337
>>
>